Installation and Establishment of Plant Material
Chapter Introduction
The installation and establishment of plant material is a critical step in any landscaping project. A properly installed plant has a significantly higher survival rate, requires fewer corrective interventions, and reaches its ornamental or functional potential more quickly. This chapter covers all the theoretical and practical knowledge required for the Red Seal exam, including plant receiving, planting techniques, density calculations, soil amendments, initial irrigation, and post-planting care.
Receiving and Inspecting Plant Material
Acceptance Criteria at Delivery
Receiving plant material is both a legal and technical step. You must inspect each delivery in accordance with contract specifications and the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) standards applicable to nursery stock, notably CSA A300 for tree care and CAN/CSA-Z262 for nursery stock (although the latter is less commonly cited, it remains a useful reference).
At delivery, verify:
Overall condition: absence of mechanical damage, dehydration, or breakage.
Root system: for container-grown plants, roots must not be pot-bound (circling) or excessively protruding from drainage holes.
Root ball: for balled-and-burlapped (B&B) trees, the root ball must be firm, moist, and intact. Dimensions must meet standard ratios: root ball diameter ≥ 8 to 12 × trunk diameter (DBH) for deciduous trees, and ≥ 10 to 14 × DBH for conifers.
Root collar (trunk flare): it must be visible and not buried in the container (buried root collar = major defect).
Vigor: swollen buds, bark without cracks, green and turgid needles for conifers.
Rejecting Material
You have the right and the duty to reject any plant material that does not meet contract specifications. Document the rejection in writing, with photos, and note the time and date. Rejected plant material must be replaced by the supplier within a reasonable timeframe, generally specified in the contract.
Temporary Storage
If planting cannot take place immediately:
Container-grown plants: place them in a shaded area, water regularly, and protect them from wind.
Balled-and-burlapped plants: keep the root ball moist by covering it with mulch, soil, or wet burlap. Never leave a root ball exposed to sun or wind for more than a few hours.
Bare-root plants: heel them in immediately — bury the roots in a trench of moist soil, lean the plants at a 45° angle, and water thoroughly. This is the most reliable preservation method for bare-root stock.
Planting Site Preparation
Soil Analysis and Drainage
Before any planting, you must perform a soil analysis to determine pH, texture, organic matter, and available nutrients. The results guide your choices of amendments and corrective measures.
Optimal pH: most ornamental plants prefer a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Acid-loving plants (rhododendrons, azaleas, spruce) require a pH of 4.5 to 5.5.
Drainage: perform a percolation test. Dig a hole 30 cm in diameter and 30 cm deep, fill it with water, and measure the drainage time. A drainage rate of 2.5 cm per hour is acceptable. Less than 1 cm/hour indicates a drainage problem that must be corrected (French drain, mounding, or selection of tolerant species).
Compaction: compacted soil (bulk density > 1.6 g/cm³ for loam) limits root penetration and oxygenation. Subsoiling or mechanical decompaction may be necessary before planting.
Planting Hole Dimensions
The general rule: the hole must be 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball or container, and as deep as or slightly shallower than the height of the root ball. The root collar must be at finished grade level, never below.
| Plant Type | Hole Width | Hole Depth |
|---|
| Container-grown tree | 2 to 3 × container diameter | Container height (root collar at grade) |
| Balled-and-burlapped tree | 2 to 3 × root ball diameter | Root ball height (do not bury root collar) |
| Bare-root tree | Wide enough to spread roots without bending | Roots spread out, root collar at grade |
| Container-grown shrub | 2 × container diameter | Container height |
| Perennial in cell pack | 1.5 to 2 × cell pack diameter | Cell pack height |
Soil Amendments
Amendments must be incorporated into the excavated soil before backfilling. Typical quantities:
Organic matter (compost): 20 to 30% of the volume of excavated soil, or approximately 1 part compost to 3 to 4 parts soil. Do not exceed 30% — excess organic matter can create an overly rich environment and subsequent settling.
Sphagnum peat moss: 20 to 25% for sandy or clay soils, to improve water retention or aeration. Peat moss is acidic (pH 3.5 to 4.5) — use sparingly for non-acid-loving plants.
Dolomitic lime: to raise pH, apply 2 to 4 kg per 10 m², according to the soil analysis.
Elemental sulfur: to lower pH, apply 0.5 to 1 kg per 10 m² on loam, adjusted according to the analysis.
Starter fertilizer: a slow-release fertilizer (type 14-14-14 or 18-6-12) at a rate of 50 to 100 g per planting hole, mixed into the backfill soil. Never place fertilizer in direct contact with roots — risk of severe root burn.
Planting Techniques by Plant Type
Planting Container-Grown Trees
38.Pre-watering: water the container thoroughly 1 to 2 hours before planting.
39.Extraction: remove the container by cutting it if necessary. Never pull on the trunk.
40.Root teasing: if roots are pot-bound, make 3 to 4 vertical incisions 2 to 3 cm deep on the sides of the root ball, and one X-shaped incision on the bottom. This stimulates new root growth.
41.Placement: position the root ball in the hole, verify the root collar level using a spirit level or a straight board laid across the hole.
42.Backfilling: backfill with amended soil, lightly firming in 15 to 20 cm layers. Avoid heavy compaction — overly compacted soil limits oxygenation.
43.Watering berm (saucer): create a soil berm 10 to 15 cm high around the root zone, 30 to 60 cm from the trunk, to retain water.
44.Initial watering: water slowly and thoroughly — 10 to 15 litres of water per tree, depending on size.
Planting Balled-and-Burlapped Trees
46.Handling: lift the tree by the root ball, never by the trunk. Use a sling or forklift if the root ball weighs more than 50 kg.
47.Positioning: place the root ball in the hole. The top of the root ball must be at finished grade level.
48.Removing fasteners: remove nails, twine, and wire from the top of the root ball. Leave the burlap in place if it is biodegradable (natural jute) — it will decompose in 1 to 2 years. If the burlap is synthetic or treated, remove it entirely.
49.Backfilling: backfill with amended soil, firming gently. Do not cover the top of the root ball with more than 2 to 3 cm of soil.
50.Watering: water thoroughly to eliminate air pockets.
Planting Bare-Root Trees
52.Preparation: soak the roots in a clay slurry (root dip) or in water for 1 to 2 hours before planting.
53.Root pruning: cut damaged or desiccated roots with clean pruning shears.
54.Placement: form a soil cone at the bottom of the hole, spread the roots over the cone, and adjust the height so the root collar is at grade level.
55.Backfilling: backfill while gently shaking the tree so soil penetrates between the roots. Firm gently.
56.Watering: water thoroughly.
Planting Shrubs and Hedges
The technique is similar to that for trees, but spacing is more critical for hedges. Calculate spacing according to species and desired effect:
Formal sheared hedge: 30 to 60 cm spacing between plants.
Informal (unsheared) hedge: 60 to 120 cm spacing.
Windbreak screen: 1.5 to 3 m spacing.
Spacing formula: for a hedge of length L with spacing E, the number of plants N = (L ÷ E) + 1. For example, for a 10 m hedge with 50 cm spacing: N = (10 ÷ 0.5) + 1 = 21 plants.
Planting Perennials, Grasses, and Groundcovers
Planting density: calculate based on the area to be covered and the mature spread of the plant. The formula: Number of plants = Area (m²) ÷ (Spacing (m))².
Example: to cover 25 m² with plants spaced 30 cm (0.3 m) apart: N = 25 ÷ (0.3)² = 25 ÷ 0.09 = 278 plants.
Staggered (triangular) planting: for dense groundcover, use staggered spacing, which reduces the number of plants by approximately 15% compared to square spacing, while providing more uniform coverage.
Staking and Stabilization
Principles of Staking
Staking is not systematic. It is necessary only when:
The tree is exposed to wind (open site).
The tree is large-caliper (DBH > 10 cm) with a small root ball.
The soil is loose or sandy.
The site has a steep slope.
General rule: a stake should be removed after 1 to 2 years, once the tree is established. A stake left in place too long weakens the trunk (lack of mechanical stimulation).
Staking Methods
| Method | Description | Recommended Use |
|---|
| Single stake | One stake 2.5 to 3 m long driven 30-45 cm from the trunk, on the prevailing wind side, attached with a flexible strap in a figure-8 | Small-caliper trees (DBH < 8 cm) |
| Double stake | Two stakes parallel to the trunk, 30-45 cm on either side, with two ties | Medium-caliper trees (DBH 8-15 cm) |
| Tripod staking | Three stakes connected at the top, forming a tripod | Large-caliper trees or highly exposed sites |
| Guying | Three cables or straps anchored to the ground at 120° around the tree | Very large-caliper trees (DBH > 15 cm) |
Tying Materials
Use flexible straps (rubber, foam, textile webbing) at least 2.5 cm wide. Never use wire, thin rope, or rigid plastic ties — they cause girdling injuries. The tie must form a figure-8 between the stake and the trunk, allowing slight tree movement.
Mulching
Roles of Mulch
Moisture conservation: reduces soil evaporation by 25 to 50%.
Weed control: a 7 to 10 cm layer blocks germination.
Temperature regulation: insulates the soil against temperature extremes.
Compaction prevention: protects the root zone from foot traffic.
Organic matter contribution: organic mulch decomposes and enriches the soil.
Proper Application
Thickness: 7 to 10 cm for coarse organic mulch (shredded bark), 5 to 7 cm for fine mulch (wood chips).
Application area: spread mulch over the entire root zone, at least to the drip line (crown projection).
Distance from trunk: never pile mulch against the trunk — leave a 5 to 10 cm gap around the root collar. Volcano mulching (piled against the trunk) causes permanent bark moisture, root collar rot, and pest infestation.
Types of Mulch
| Type | Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|
| Shredded bark | Durable (2-3 years), aesthetic | Can float during heavy rain |
| Wood chips | Abundant, economical | Consume nitrogen during decomposition |
| Straw | Light, economical | Moves easily, less aesthetic |
| Compost | Enriches soil | Must be applied in a thin layer (2-3 cm) |
| Crushed stone | Permanent, controls weeds | Adds no organic matter, heats the soil |
| Geotextile + mulch | Superior weed control | More complex installation, higher cost |
Initial Irrigation and Establishment
Water Requirements After Planting
The critical establishment period is 12 to 24 months after planting. During this period, the root system is reduced and cannot absorb enough water to meet the crown's needs.
General rule: a newly planted tree requires 10 litres of water per 2.5 cm of trunk diameter (DBH) , applied 2 to 3 times per week for the first month, then once per week for the first growing season.
Calculating Water Requirements
For a tree with a DBH of 8 cm:
Weekly requirement: (8 ÷ 2.5) × 10 = 32 litres per week.
Divide into 2 to 3 applications: 10 to 16 litres per application.
Irrigation Methods
Soaker hose or drip irrigation: the most efficient method — delivers water slowly, directly to the root zone.
Watering berm: effective for the first few weeks, but must be leveled after 2-3 months.
Sprinkler irrigation: less efficient for trees (evaporation loss), acceptable for perennial beds.
Signs of Water Stress
Wilting leaves in the morning (before the heat of the day).
Yellowing or browning leaves at the edges.
Premature leaf drop.
Dead branches at the crown tips.
Signs of Overwatering
Yellow leaves with green veins (chlorosis).
Constantly waterlogged soil.
Rotting odour (anaerobic conditions).
Fungi present at the base of the trunk.
Pruning at Planting
Principles
Pruning at planting should be minimal. Prune only to:
Remove dead, diseased, or broken branches.
Correct structural defects: weak crotches, crossing branches, branch angles that are too narrow (< 30°).
Balance the crown if the root system has been severely reduced (bare-root).
Mistakes to Avoid
Excessive reduction pruning: never reduce the tree's height by more than 25% at planting.
Topping: never top a tree — this causes permanent wounds and weak regrowth.
Pruning conifers: never prune the top (leader) of a conifer — vertical growth is permanently lost.
Winter Protection
Trunk Protection
Trunk guard (wrap): install a spiral plastic guard or fine mesh on the first 60 to 90 cm of young tree trunks to prevent damage from rodents (voles, rabbits) and winter sunscald.
Whitewash or white paint: apply to trunks exposed to the southwest to reflect light and prevent frost cracks.
Root Protection
Winter mulch: apply an additional 10 to 15 cm layer of mulch after the ground freezes, to prevent frost heaving.
Fall watering: water thoroughly before the ground freezes (late October to November) so roots have a water reserve.
Conifer Protection
Wind screen: install a burlap or geotextile screen on the prevailing wind side to prevent winter desiccation (needle burn).
Antidesiccant: apply an antitranspirant product to the needles in late fall to reduce water loss.
Applicable Standards and Codes
Relevant CSA Standards
CSA A300: series of standards on tree care, including planting, pruning, and risk assessment.
CSA Z262: standard on nursery stock (plant quality).
CSA A300-14, Section 3: specifies requirements for tree planting, including planting depth, staking, and mulching.
Canadian Electrical Code, Part I
When installing electrical irrigation systems (pumps, electric valves, controllers), you must comply with the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I (CE Code) (C22.1). Key rules:
Rule 8-200: outdoor irrigation circuits must be protected by a Class A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).
Rule 12-220: buried cables must be installed at a minimum depth of 600 mm, or protected by conduit.
Rule 36-204: underground conductors must be identified by warning tape placed 300 mm above the cable.
CSA B149.1 (Natural Gas and Propane Code)
If you install gas-operated irrigation systems or equipment (rare in horticulture, but possible for certain greenhouse equipment), CSA B149.1 applies. Buried gas lines must be installed at a minimum depth of 450 mm and be protected against corrosion.
Species at Risk Act (SARA)
Before planting or modifying a site, check for the presence of protected plant or animal species. The Species at Risk Act (S.C. 2002, c. 29) prohibits destroying or disturbing the habitat of a listed species. Consult the public SARA registry before any work.
Practical Calculations for the Exam
Calculating Planting Density
Formula: N = S ÷ E²
N = number of plants
S = area to be covered (m²)
E = spacing between plants (m)
Example: You need to plant perennials in a bed measuring 12 m × 4 m (48 m²), with 25 cm (0.25 m) spacing.
N = 48 ÷ (0.25)² = 48 ÷ 0.0625 = 768 plants.
Add 5 to 10% for losses: 768 × 1.10 = 845 plants to order.
Calculating Excavated Soil Volume
Formula: V = π × r² × h
V = volume (m³)
r = hole radius (m)
h = hole depth (m)
Example: Planting hole 1.2 m in diameter (radius 0.6 m) and 0.8 m deep.
V = 3.1416 × (0.6)² × 0.8 = 3.1416 × 0.36 × 0.8 = 0.905 m³.
For 10 trees: 9.05 m³ of soil to excavate and backfill.
Calculating Mulch Volume
Formula: V = S × e
V = mulch volume (m³)
S = area to cover (m²)
e = mulch thickness (m)
Example: Area of 50 m², thickness of 8 cm (0.08 m).
V = 50 × 0.08 = 4 m³ of mulch.
Volume Conversions
1 m³ = 1000 litres.
1 cubic yard (yd³) = 0.765 m³.
1 bag of mulch (60 L) = 0.06 m³.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid
177.Planting too deeply: this is the most frequent and most fatal error. The root collar must always be at finished grade level. A buried root collar causes bark rot, decline, and death within 2 to 5 years.
178.Volcano mulching: piling mulch against the trunk creates a humid microclimate that promotes disease and pests. Always leave a 5 to 10 cm gap around the root collar.
179.Over-compacting backfill soil: overly compacted soil limits root oxygenation. Firm lightly, then water to settle naturally.
180.Leaving synthetic burlap: synthetic burlap does not decompose and girdles the roots. Always remove it.
181.Forgetting to remove staking ties: a tie left in place for several years becomes embedded in the trunk and blocks sap flow.
182.Planting during frozen conditions: never plant when the soil is frozen or waterlogged — roots will be damaged and soil will compact.
183.Watering too frequently and too shallowly: shallow watering (5 minutes) encourages roots to stay at the surface, making them vulnerable to drought. Water deeply and less often.
184.Confusing amendments and fertilizers: an amendment (compost, peat moss) improves soil structure; a fertilizer provides nutrients. Both are necessary, but at different times.
185.Ignoring CSA A300 requirements: the Red Seal exam tests your knowledge of national standards. Memorize the key CSA A300 planting requirements.
186.Not checking for underground utilities: before digging, locate utility services (electricity, gas, water, telecommunications). Call the locate service (Info-Excavation at 1-800-663-9228) at least 48 hours before digging.
Summary
Receiving: inspect each delivery for quality, root ball, root collar, and vigor. Reject any non-conforming material.
Preparation: analyze the soil, check drainage, and dig holes 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball, never deeper.
Amendments: incorporate 20 to 30% compost into the backfill soil. Never place fertilizer in contact with roots.
Planting technique: root collar at grade level, backfill in lightly firmed layers, watering berm, thorough initial watering.
Staking: only when necessary (wind, large caliper, loose soil). Use flexible figure-8 straps, remove after 1 to 2 years.
Mulching: 7 to 10 cm thick, never against the trunk, spread to the drip line.
Irrigation: 10 L of water per 2.5 cm of DBH, 2 to 3 times per week for the first month, then once per week.
Calculations: master the formulas for density (N = S ÷ E²), soil volume (V = πr²h), and mulch volume (V = S × e).
Standards: comply with CSA A300, the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I (Rules 8-200, 12-220, 36-204), and the Species at Risk Act.
Winter protection: protect trunks, water before freeze-up, and install wind screens for conifers.
Self-Assessment Questions
199.What is the minimum ratio between root ball diameter and DBH for a deciduous tree delivered balled-and-burlapped?
200.What is the correct planting depth for a container-grown tree?
201.Calculate the number of plants needed to cover an area of 60 m² with 40 cm spacing.
202.What mulch thickness is recommended for shredded bark mulch?
203.Which rule of the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I requires a GFCI for outdoor irrigation circuits?
204.What are three signs of overwatering in a newly planted tree?
205.What is the minimum burial depth for an electrical cable according to Rule 12-220?
206.Why should you never bury a tree's root collar?
207.What is the maximum recommended duration for leaving a stake in place?
208.What is the maximum percentage of crown reduction allowed when pruning at planting?
