Skin Care and Makeup Application

Chapter Introduction

This chapter covers the essential skills related to skin care and makeup application, as required by the Red Seal for the hairstylist trade. Although the core of the profession is hair cutting and coloring, skin analysis, basic skin care, and makeup are integral parts of the services offered in a salon. You must master these techniques to provide a complete, safe, and professional service, and to pass the interprovincial exam.

This chapter is structured according to Canadian national standards and Red Seal guidelines. No provincial content is included; only pan-Canadian standards are referenced.

1. Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin

1.1 The Three Main Layers

The skin is the largest organ of the human body. For a hairstylist, understanding its structure is essential for choosing the right products and avoiding adverse reactions.

Layer	Technical Name	Main Function	Average Thickness
Epidermis	Superficial layer	Protection, cell renewal	0.1 to 0.3 mm
Dermis	Intermediate layer	Elasticity, vascularization, nerves	1 to 2 mm
Hypodermis	Deep layer	Thermal insulation, energy reserve	Variable (2 to 10 mm)

The epidermis is divided into five sub-layers (from deepest to most superficial):

11.Basal layer (stratum germinativum): production of new cells (keratinocytes)

12.Spinous layer (stratum spinosum): desmosomes, mechanical resistance

13.Granular layer (stratum granulosum): production of keratin and lipids

14.Clear layer (stratum lucidum): present only on the palms and soles

15.Horny layer (stratum corneum): dead cells, protective barrier

Exam Point: Complete cell renewal of the epidermis takes approximately 28 days in a young adult, but this cycle slows down with age (up to 45–60 days after age 50). This data point is frequently tested.

1.2 Skin Appendages

The appendages of the skin include:

Sudoriferous (sweat) glands (eccrine and apocrine): sweat production, thermoregulation

Sebaceous glands: sebum production, lubrication, and protection

Hair follicles: implantation of body hair and scalp hair

Nails: hard keratin

Normal skin pH ranges between 4.5 and 5.5 (slightly acidic). This acid mantle (Marchionini's acid mantle) protects against bacteria and fungi. Any product used on the skin must respect this balance, unless otherwise indicated (e.g., acidic exfoliating products for professional use).

2. Skin Types and Analysis

2.1 Classification of Skin Types

Skin Type	Characteristics	Sebaceous Secretion	Tendency
Normal	Fine texture, barely visible pores, even complexion	Balanced	Few problems
Dry	Tightness, flaking, invisible pores, dull complexion	Insufficient	Dehydration, wrinkles
Oily	Enlarged pores, shine, comedones	Excessive	Acne, blackheads
Combination	T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) oily, cheeks dry	Variable	Imbalance
Sensitive	Redness, tingling, couperose	Fragile	Reactions to products

Analysis Method: Before any service, perform a visual and tactile analysis under adequate lighting (ideally 500 lux minimum). Use a magnifying lamp (Wood's lamp) to detect:

Areas of dehydration (white flakes)

Oily areas (yellow reflections)

Areas of pigmentation (brown spots)

Areas of couperose (visible blood vessels)

2.2 Skin Conditions to Recognize

Condition	Description	Contraindication
Active acne	Inflammatory lesions, pustules	Avoid deep massage, use non-comedogenic products
Eczema	Redness, itching, flaking	Refer to a dermatologist
Psoriasis	Thick silvery plaques	Refer, avoid any irritation
Cold sores (herpes labialis)	Blisters on the lips	Absolute contraindication to makeup and skin care
Couperose	Visible dilated blood vessels	Avoid irritating products and excessive heat
Contact dermatitis	Allergic reaction	Identify the allergen, refer

Golden Rule: When in doubt about a skin condition, do not treat and recommend a medical consultation. The professional responsibility of the hairstylist includes recognizing contraindications.

3. Skin Care Products

3.1 Product Classification

Skin care products are classified into several categories according to their function:

Category	Function	Examples of Active Ingredients
Cleansers	Remove impurities, sebum, makeup	Mild surfactants (coco-betaine), micellar water
Toners	Rebalance pH, tighten pores	Witch hazel, rose water, lactic acid (low %)
Exfoliants	Remove dead cells	Glycolic acid (5–10%), salicylic acid (0.5–2%), microgranules
Moisturizers	Provide water to the skin	Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, ceramides
Emollients	Provide lipids, nourish	Shea butter, jojoba oil, squalane
Serums	Targeted treatment with high concentration	Vitamin C, retinol, peptides
Masks	Intensive spot treatment	Clay (oily), algae (hydrating), enzymes

3.2 Product Safety Regulations

According to the Cosmetic Regulations (Food and Drugs Act, Canada), cosmetics sold in Canada must:

Be safe for their intended use

Not contain prohibited substances (Health Canada's list of prohibited ingredients)

Bear a compliant label (ingredient list, warnings, manufacturer's name)

Frequent Exam Points:

Expired products must be discarded (check the expiry date or the PAO symbol — Period After Opening, represented by an open jar with a number, e.g., 6M, 12M)

Products must be stored away from direct light and heat (ideal temperature: 15–25 °C)

Never re-dip a soiled tool into a product jar (use a disposable spatula)

3.3 Active Ingredients and Their Precautions

Ingredient	Typical Concentration	Precautions
Glycolic acid	5–10% (professional use)	May cause redness; patch test 24 hours before
Salicylic acid	0.5–2%	Avoid in pregnant women (medical advice)
Retinol	0.1–1%	Photosensitizing; use sunscreen
Vitamin C	5–15%	Unstable in light; store away from light
Hyaluronic acid	0.1–2%	Well tolerated, hydrating
Niacinamide (B3)	2–5%	May cause flushing at high doses

Patch Test: Apply a small amount of the product behind the ear or on the forearm, wait 24 hours, and check for any reaction. This procedure is mandatory before any service using an active product.

4. Facial Treatment Procedures

4.1 Basic Protocol (60 minutes)

The professional facial treatment follows a specific sequence:

57.Consultation and analysis (5 min): Questionnaire on allergies, medications, skin conditions

58.Preparation (5 min): Comfortable setup, tie back hair, hand disinfection

59.Makeup removal and cleansing (10 min): Double cleansing (cleansing oil then foaming cleanser)

60.Exfoliation (5 min): Mechanical or enzymatic scrub according to skin type

61.Steaming (5 min): Warm steam (no more than 10 min) to open the pores

62.Extraction (10 min): Only if necessary, with gloves and sterile compresses

63.Massage (10 min): Facial massage techniques (effleurage, petrissage, tapotement)

64.Mask (10 min): According to skin type (clay, hydrating, soothing)

65.Toner and moisturizer (5 min): Apply toner then moisturizing cream

66.Protection (2 min): Sunscreen SPF 30 minimum

4.2 Facial Massage Techniques

Facial massage movements must follow the lymphatic drainage lines and muscle fibers:

Movement	Direction	Effect
Effleurage	From the center outward, downward	Relaxation, circulation
Petrissage	Circular movements on the cheeks and forehead	Muscle toning
Tapotement (percussion)	Light tapping with fingertips	Stimulation, radiance
Lymphatic drainage	From the center of the face toward the lymph nodes (neck, behind the ears)	Decongestion, reduction of puffiness

Safety Rule: Facial massage is contraindicated in cases of inflammatory acne, cold sores, severe couperose, fever, or skin cancer being treated.

4.3 Equipment Used in Skin Care

Equipment	Use	Precautions
Steam lamp (vaporizer)	Open pores, hydrate	Distance of 30–40 cm, maximum duration 10 min
Magnifying lamp (Wood's lamp)	Skin analysis	Do not look directly at the light
High-frequency device	Sanitize, stimulate (glass electrode)	Contraindicated: pacemaker, pregnancy, very sensitive skin
Ultrasonic spatula	Exfoliation, penetration of active ingredients	Use with a conductive gel
Galvanic current device	Iontophoresis of products	Contraindicated: dental metal, implants

Safety Standard: All electrical equipment must comply with the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I (Rule 8-200 for hair salon installations). Check the condition of cords and outlets before each use.

5. Makeup Application

5.1 Basic Principles

Professional salon makeup includes:

Daytime makeup (natural, professional)

Evening makeup (more intense)

Corrective makeup (camouflage of imperfections)

Bridal makeup (long-lasting, photogenic)

Strict Hygiene Rules:

Use disposable applicators (mascara, eyeliner) or brushes disinfected between each client

Never use the same mascara on two clients (risk of ocular contamination)

Pencils must be sharpened before each use (new surface)

Powders must be dispensed with a spatula or a clean brush

5.2 Application Steps

88.Skin preparation: Cleansing, toner, light moisturizer, primer

89.Concealer: Apply to dark circles, redness, blemishes (green color to neutralize red, yellow for bluish dark circles)

90.Foundation: Choose the exact shade (test on the jawline, not on the hand)

91.Loose or pressed powder: Set the foundation (T-zone)

92.Eyebrows: Brush, fill in with a pencil or powder

93.Eyeshadow: Base color, transition color, accent color

94.Eyeliner: Fine line along the lash line

95.Mascara: One to two coats, in a zigzag motion from root to tip

96.Blush: On the cheekbones, blend toward the temples

97.Lips: Lip liner, lipstick, gloss (optional)

5.3 Color Theory Applied to Makeup

The color wheel is essential for corrective makeup:

Color to Neutralize	Corrective Color	Use
Red (redness, blemishes)	Green	Green concealer
Blue/purple (dark circles)	Yellow/orange	Peach concealer
Yellow (dull complexion)	Lavender/purple	Lilac concealer
Brown (pigment spots)	Pink/red	Rosy concealer

Rule of Contrasts: Opposite colors on the color wheel neutralize each other. This rule also applies to choosing eyeshadow shades based on eye color (e.g., copper eyeshadow to make blue eyes stand out).

5.4 Face Shapes and Corrective Techniques

Face Shape	Characteristics	Corrective Technique
Oval	Balanced proportions	Considered ideal, few corrections needed
Round	Similar width and length	Contour the temples and jawline (darker shade)
Square	Wide jaw, wide forehead	Soften the angles with diagonal blush
Long	Height > width	Darken the forehead and chin, lighten the cheeks
Heart	Wide forehead, pointed chin	Darken the temples, lighten the chin
Diamond	Wide cheekbones, narrow forehead and chin	Lighten the forehead and chin, darken the cheekbones

Contouring Rule: Areas to darken (shadow) recede; areas to lighten (light) advance. Use a shade 2 tones darker for shadow and 2 tones lighter for light.

6. Hygiene, Sanitation, and Safety

6.1 Hygiene Standards According to the Red Seal

Hygiene requirements are standardized across Canada according to national guidelines:

Element	Requirement
Hands	Washed before and after each client
Gloves	Mandatory for extraction, makeup (if skin is broken)
Brushes	Cleaned with an alcohol-based disinfectant (70%) between each client
Applicators	Disposable for eyes and lips
Towels	One clean towel per client, washed at 60 °C minimum
Surfaces	Disinfected between each client (counter, chair)
Products	Disposable spatulas, never touch directly with fingers

Disinfection vs. Sterilization:

Disinfection: Eliminates most microorganisms (except spores). Used for brushes and surfaces.

Sterilization: Eliminates all microorganisms, including spores. Reserved for metal instruments (tweezers, scissors) via an autoclave.

6.2 Waste Management

Contaminated waste (cotton with blood, needles if microblading service — not permitted for hairstylists) must be disposed of in specific containers

Expired products must be disposed of according to label instructions

Chemical product containers must be recycled or disposed of according to municipal standards

7. Calculations and Dosages

7.1 Product Dilution

Some products (e.g., glycolic acid) require precise dilution. The basic formula:

C₁ × V₁ = C₂ × V₂

Where:

C₁ = initial concentration (%)

V₁ = initial volume (mL)

C₂ = final concentration (%)

V₂ = final volume (mL)

Example: You have a 30% glycolic acid solution and need to prepare 100 mL of a 10% solution.

C₁ = 30%, V₁ = ?, C₂ = 10%, V₂ = 100 mL

V₁ = (C₂ × V₂) / C₁ = (10 × 100) / 30 = 33.3 mL

You must therefore measure 33.3 mL of the 30% solution and add 66.7 mL of distilled water.

7.2 Calculating the Cost of a Service

The cost of a facial treatment includes:

Cost of consumable products (cream, mask, etc.)

Cost of labor (time × hourly rate)

Cost of disposable supplies (gloves, cotton, spatulas)

Overhead costs (electricity, rent, depreciation)

Formula: Selling price = (Total cost of materials + Cost of labor) / (1 - Profit margin)

Example: Materials = $8, labor = $15 (30 min at $30/h), margin = 60%

Price = (8 + 15) / (1 - 0.60) = 23 / 0.40 = $57.50

7.3 Product Application Times

Product	Standard Application Time	Factors of Variation
Clay mask	10–15 min	Do not let it dry completely
Hydrating mask	10–20 min	According to manufacturer's instructions
Enzymatic exfoliant	5–10 min	Skin sensitivity
Serum	2–5 min before moisturizer	Absorption
Sunscreen	15 min before exposure	Reapply every 2 hours

8. Canadian Standards and Regulations

8.1 Canadian Electrical Code, Part I

Rule 8-200 of the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I, applies to personal care establishments, including hair salons. Key requirements include:

Electrical outlets must be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) in wet areas

Electrical equipment must be maintained in good condition and checked regularly

Extension cords are prohibited for permanent use

Circuits must be sized for the maximum load of the equipment

8.2 Food and Drugs Act (Canada)

The Cosmetic Regulations (C.R.C., c. 869) require:

Notification of the sale of a cosmetic to Health Canada (notification form)

List of ingredients on the label (INCI — International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients)

Mandatory warnings for certain products (e.g., aerosols, children's products)

Prohibition of specific substances (Schedule 2 of the Regulations)

8.3 Infection Prevention Guidelines

According to the Public Health Agency of Canada (PHAC) guidelines:

Basic practices: hand hygiene, personal protective equipment (PPE), safe management of sharps

Environmental cleaning and disinfection

Biomedical waste management

Exam Point: The hairstylist is not authorized to pierce the skin (tattooing, microblading, piercing). These services fall under other regulated professions. Permanent makeup is also excluded from the scope of practice.

9. Pitfalls to Avoid

164.Confusing dehydration and dry skin: Dehydration is a lack of water (temporary); dry skin is a lack of lipids (chronic). The treatments differ.

165.Skipping the patch test: Never apply an active product without a prior 24-hour skin test. This is a frequent error that can lead to serious allergic reactions.

166.Using the same applicator for multiple clients: Mascara, eyeliner, and lip pencils are vectors of contamination. Always use disposable applicators or sharpen pencils.

167.Neglecting the expiry date: Cosmetic products have a limited shelf life after opening (PAO). An expired product may contain bacteria.

168.Miscalculating dilutions: A calculation error in diluting an acid can cause chemical burns. Double-check your calculations.

169.Forgetting the GFCI: Outlets near water sources must be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter according to the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I.

170.Confusing corrective colors: Green neutralizes red, yellow neutralizes blue/purple. A color error worsens the imperfection.

171.Testing foundation on the hand: The color of the hand differs from that of the face. Test on the jawline.

172.Massaging skin with an active acne breakout: Massage can spread the infection. Absolute contraindication.

173.Not documenting the consultation: The client record (allergies, skin conditions, products used) is a professional obligation and a legal protection.

10. Summary

The skin has three layers (epidermis, dermis, hypodermis) with a natural pH of 4.5 to 5.5

Skin analysis must precede any service; when in doubt, refer to a physician

The five skin types (normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive) require different products and protocols

The facial treatment protocol follows a strict sequence: consultation, cleansing, exfoliation, steaming, extraction, massage, mask, moisturizing, protection

Facial massage is contraindicated in cases of inflammatory acne, cold sores, or severe couperose

Corrective makeup uses the color wheel: green neutralizes red, yellow neutralizes blue/purple

Hygiene rules are non-negotiable: disposable applicators, brush disinfection, gloves for extraction

Dilution calculations (C₁V₁ = C₂V₂) and cost calculations are assessed skills

The Canadian Electrical Code, Part I (Rule 8-200) requires GFCIs in wet areas

The Cosmetic Regulations (Health Canada) govern the safety of products used

The hairstylist cannot pierce the skin (microblading, tattooing, permanent makeup)

11. Exam Tips

Memorize the numerical values: skin pH (4.5–5.5), cell renewal (28 days), mask application times (10–15 min), towel washing temperature (60 °C)

Learn the color wheel by heart: questions about correctors are frequent

Practice dilution calculations: at least 5 exercises before the exam

Know the contraindications: cold sores, inflammatory acne, pacemaker for electrical devices

Review the standards: Canadian Electrical Code (Rule 8-200), Cosmetic Regulations, PHAC guidelines

Use clinical reasoning: in scenario-based questions, first identify the skin condition, then the appropriate treatment, then the contraindications

End of Chapter 9 — Skin Care and Makeup Application. This content complies with the national Red Seal standards for the hairstylist trade.

Skin Care and Makeup Application