Wigs, Hair Additions, and Extensions

Chapter Introduction

This chapter covers all the theoretical and practical knowledge related to wigs, hair additions, and extensions, as required by the Interprovincial Red Seal program for the hairstylist trade. You must master not only application techniques, but also material selection, quantity calculations, hygiene protocols, and applicable safety standards. This chapter is structured to follow the logical progression of the exam: from product classification to maintenance procedures, including professional calculations.

Classification of Hair Products

Wigs: Definition and Types

A wig is a complete hairstyle made of natural or synthetic hair, mounted on a base (or cap) that completely covers the scalp. There are three main categories based on the manufacturing method:

Wig Type	Characteristics	Recommended Use
Capless wig	Transparent mesh base, lightweight, breathable	Daily wear, warm climates
Full cap wig	Opaque fabric base, heavier, durable	Total alopecia, medical use
Lace front wig	Fine lace at the front, natural appearance	High aesthetic requirements, media

The density of a wig is expressed as a percentage (50%, 80%, 100%, 120%, 150%, 200%). A density of 100% corresponds to normal hair. A density of 150% to 200% is used for voluminous styles or theatrical wigs.

Hair Additions: Definition

A hair addition is a device that adds volume or length to existing hair without completely covering the scalp. Types include:

Toupees: small pieces covering a limited area (often the crown), attached with adhesive or clips.

Wefts: sections of hair attached at the base of natural hair.

Integration pieces: systems that blend with existing hair to mask a thinning area.

Extensions: Classification by Attachment Method

Method	Wear Duration	Attachment Material	Main Risks
Hot (keratin)	3 to 4 months	Melted keratin capsules	Excessive heat, breakage
Cold (micro-rings)	2 to 3 months	Metal or silicone rings	Twisting, traction
Glue (tapes)	4 to 6 weeks	Medical or cosmetic adhesive	Allergic reactions, residue
Sewn (weave)	6 to 8 weeks	Thread and needle on braid	Excessive tension, traction alopecia
Clip-ins	Daily use	Metal clips	None if removed at night

Raw Materials: Natural vs. Synthetic Hair

Natural Hair

Natural hair is classified by origin and treatment:

Virgin hair: never chemically treated, intact cuticle, aligned from root to tip.

Remy hair: cuticles aligned in the same direction, but may have undergone light treatments.

Non-Remy hair: mixed cuticles, high risk of tangling, reduced price.

Origin influences hair texture and diameter:

Origin	Average Diameter (µm)	Texture
Asian	80 to 120	Thick, straight, robust
European	50 to 80	Fine, wavy, soft
Indian	60 to 90	Medium, slightly wavy
Brazilian	70 to 100	Voluminous, wavy

Synthetic Hair

Synthetic fibres are classified into three generations:

26.Basic fibres (PVC, polyester): artificial shine, heat-sensitive (melts at 60 °C).

27.Modacrylic fibres: more natural appearance, moderate heat resistance (up to 90 °C).

28.Heat-resistant fibres (Toyokalon, Kanekalon): can be styled with irons at controlled temperatures (120 °C to 160 °C depending on the manufacturer).

Professional rule: never apply heat above the maximum temperature indicated by the manufacturer. The melting temperature of synthetic fibres is a critical parameter — a 10 °C deviation can cause irreversible deformation.

Selection and Analysis Principles

Client Analysis

Before any application, you must assess:

33.Natural hair density: approximate hair count per cm² (normal: 200 to 300 hairs/cm²).

34.Hair diameter: measured with a micrometre or assessed by touch (fine < 60 µm, medium 60–80 µm, thick > 80 µm).

35.Porosity: float test — hair that sinks immediately in water is highly porous.

36.Elasticity: stretching 20% to 30% without breaking = normal elasticity.

37.Colour and highlights: under natural and artificial light.

Calculating the Quantity of Extensions

Calculating the number of wefts needed depends on three factors: desired density, natural hair length, and head circumference.

Basic formula for weft extensions:

Quantity (g) = (Desired density in % ÷ 100) × (Head circumference in cm) × (Length factor)

The length factor is an empirical coefficient:

Extension Length (cm)	Factor
15 to 25	0.8
26 to 40	1.0
41 to 55	1.2
56 and above	1.4

Example: A client with a head circumference of 56 cm wants 120% density with 35 cm extensions.

Quantity = (120 ÷ 100) × 56 × 1.0 = 67.2 g. Round up to 70 g to compensate for losses.

Practical rule: for 100% density on an average head (55–57 cm), plan for 50 to 60 g of extensions for a 30 cm length. Each additional 10 cm adds approximately 15% more weight.

Calculating for Custom Wigs

For a custom wig, calculating the head perimeter is essential:

Perimeter = (Anteroposterior diameter + Transverse diameter) × π ÷ 2

Standard measurements: the average adult head perimeter is 56 to 58 cm. A variation of ± 2 cm is normal depending on age and sex.

Application Procedures

Scalp and Hair Preparation

53.Cleansing: clarifying shampoo (silicone-free) 24 to 48 hours before application.

54.Complete drying: hair must be perfectly dry for glue or ring methods.

55.Detangling: methodical brushing from tip to root.

56.Sectioning: divide the hair into 1 cm thick sections using clips.

Applying Hot (Keratin) Extensions

58.Take a 0.5 to 1 g section of natural hair.

59.Position the keratin capsule 1 cm from the root (never less — risk of traction).

60.Heat with the keratin iron at a temperature of 130 °C to 150 °C.

61.Press for 3 to 5 seconds, then check the strength of the bond.

62.Allow to cool completely before styling.

Application time: a full head (100 to 150 capsules) requires 2 to 3 hours for an experienced professional.

Applying Micro-Ring Extensions

65.Select a ring of appropriate diameter (2.5 to 4 mm).

66.Thread the extension weft through the ring.

67.Pass the natural hair through the ring.

68.Close the ring with the special pliers, without crushing the hair.

69.Verify that the ring slides freely 2 to 3 mm — a sign of correct tension.

Common mistake: a ring that is too tight causes traction alopecia within 2 to 3 weeks. A ring that is too loose slides and tangles the hair.

Wig Application

72.Scalp preparation: apply a scalp protector (film or protective cap).

73.Positioning: align the front hairline of the wig with the natural hairline.

74.Attachment: use clips, double-sided adhesive, or glue depending on the wig type.

75.Adjustment: check that the wig does not move during head movements.

76.Final styling: brush, cut, or style as requested.

Care and Maintenance

Cleaning Wigs

Recommended frequency:

Type of Wear	Washing Frequency
Daily wear	Every 1 to 2 weeks
Occasional wear	Every 4 to 6 weeks
Medical wig	Every 2 to 3 days

Washing procedure:

82.Gently detangle with a wide-tooth comb.

83.Soak in a solution of warm water (30 °C maximum) and gentle shampoo (pH 5.5).

84.Let soak for 5 minutes — never rub.

85.Rinse with clean water in the direction of the cuticle.

86.Apply a leave-in conditioner.

87.Dry flat on a towel — never with a hair dryer for synthetic fibres.

Extension Maintenance

Brushing: soft-bristle brush, 2 to 3 times per day, holding the base of the extension.

Washing: sulfate-free shampoo, in an upright position (head straight), never leaning the head forward.

Drying: air dry or blow dry at medium temperature (60 °C maximum).

Products: avoid products containing alcohol (drying) and silicones (build-up on capsules).

Product Lifespan

Product	Average Lifespan	Degradation Factors
Natural hair wig	1 to 3 years	Frequent washing, heat, UV
Synthetic wig	3 to 6 months	Heat, friction, styling products
Natural hair extensions	3 to 6 months (continuous wear)	Washing, brushing, chemicals
Synthetic extensions	1 to 2 months	Heat, tangling

Safety and Hygiene Standards

Canadian Electrical Code, Part I

Devices used for hot extensions (keratin irons, flat irons) must comply with the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I (CSA C22.1 standard). Relevant requirements include:

Rule 26-700: portable electrical appliances must be equipped with a flexible supply cord with grounding.

Rule 26-704: hair styling appliances must be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) when used in a commercial environment.

Practical check: before each use, inspect the cord for any cracks, fraying, or loose connections. A defective appliance must be removed from service immediately.

Hygiene Standards

Wigs and extensions are multi-use items that can transmit fungal, bacterial, or parasitic infections (lice, ringworm). Minimum requirements are:

103.Disinfect wigs between each client with an approved disinfectant solution (quaternary ammonium at 0.5% minimum).

104.Clean and disinfect all tools (pliers, combs, brushes) according to the three-step protocol: cleaning, disinfection, sterilization.

105.Wear disposable gloves when applying glue or chemicals.

106.Record any skin or allergic reactions in the client's file.

Sensitivity Test (Patch Test)

Before any application of glue, keratin, or any adhesive product, a sensitivity test must be performed 24 to 48 hours before the procedure:

109.Apply a small amount of the product behind the ear or on the forearm.

110.Observe for any redness, itching, or swelling.

111.If there is a positive reaction, do not proceed with the application.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Extension Tangling

Causes: misaligned cuticles, insufficient brushing, washing with head upside down, friction during sleep.

Solution: apply a detangling serum with light silicones, detangle with fingers then with a wide-tooth comb. If tangling persists, cut the damaged weft.

Colour Fading or Alteration

Causes: UV exposure, products containing chlorine, hard water (mineral deposits).

Solution: use UV-protective products, rinse with filtered water, apply a pigmented mask every 2 weeks.

Scalp Irritation

Causes: allergic reaction to glue or keratin, excessive tension, product build-up.

Solution: remove the device immediately, clean the area with saline solution, refer the client to a dermatologist if irritation persists for more than 48 hours.

Advanced Professional Calculations

Calculating Material Costs

The total cost of an extension application is calculated as follows:

Total cost = (Weight of extensions in g × Price per gram) + (Number of capsules × Unit price) + Labour cost

Example: 70 g of extensions at $3.50/g, 120 capsules at $0.25/capsule, labour at $150.

Cost = (70 × 3.50) + (120 × 0.25) + 150 = 245 + 30 + 150 = $425.

Calculating Service Time

Total service time (T) is the sum of consultation time (Tc), preparation time (Tp), and application time (Ta):

T = Tc + Tp + Ta

Reference values:

Procedure	Average Time
Consultation and analysis	15 to 30 min
Preparation (washing, drying, sectioning)	30 to 45 min
Application of 100 hot capsules	2 to 3 h
Application of 50 micro-rings	1.5 to 2 h
Wig application	30 to 60 min
Extension removal	30 to 60 min

Unit Conversions

1 ounce (oz) = 28.35 g

1 pound (lb) = 453.6 g

1 cm = 0.394 inch

Temperature: °C = (°F − 32) × 5 ÷ 9

Conversion example: a wig weighs 4 oz. Its weight in grams is: 4 × 28.35 = 113.4 g.

Pitfalls to Avoid

140.Confusing virgin hair and Remy hair: virgin hair has never been chemically treated; Remy hair may have been. This distinction affects price and durability.

141.Neglecting the sensitivity test: applying glue without a prior test can cause a severe allergic reaction. The test is mandatory, not optional.

142.Using excessive heat on synthetic fibres: the melting temperature varies by fibre type. Always check the manufacturer's label.

143.Forgetting the density calculation: 100% density does not mean "100 grams." It is a percentage relative to natural hair density.

144.Applying extensions to damaged or weakened hair: this worsens breakage. Assess hair condition before any application.

145.Ignoring signs of traction alopecia: hair loss around attachment areas indicates excessive tension. Remove the device immediately.

146.Failing to disinfect wigs between clients: this violates hygiene standards and risks transmitting infections.

147.Miscalculating the quantity of extensions: underestimating by 20% can compromise the final result. Always plan for a 10% to 15% margin.

148.Confusing temperatures in °C and °F: imported devices may display temperatures in degrees Fahrenheit. Check the unit before adjusting.

149.Neglecting Canadian Electrical Code requirements: appliances must comply with CSA C22.1. A non-compliant appliance can cause electric shock.

Summary

Wigs are classified by their base (mesh, full cap, lace front) and density (50% to 200%).

Hair additions include toupees, wefts, and integration pieces.

Extensions are distinguished by attachment method: hot, cold, glue, sew-in, clip-ins.

Natural hair is classified by origin and treatment (virgin, Remy, non-Remy).

Synthetic fibres have critical melting temperatures — never exceed manufacturer limits.

Quantity calculation is based on the formula: Quantity (g) = (Density % ÷ 100) × Circumference (cm) × Length factor.

The sensitivity test is mandatory 24 to 48 hours before any glue or keratin application.

Hygiene standards require disinfection of wigs and tools between each client.

The Canadian Electrical Code, Part I (CSA C22.1) governs the safety of electrical appliances — verify compliance and cord condition.

Cost calculations include weight, number of capsules, and labour.

Service times range from 30 minutes (wig application) to 3 hours (application of 100 capsules).

Self-Assessment Questions

163.What is the difference between a capless wig and a full cap wig?

164.Calculate the quantity of extensions needed for a client with a head circumference of 58 cm, a desired density of 130%, and a length of 45 cm.

165.What is the maximum temperature that can be applied to modacrylic fibres?

166.What are the three factors that influence the lifespan of a natural hair wig?

167.What are the Canadian Electrical Code rules applicable to hair styling appliances?

168.A client presents with redness at the capsules 48 hours after application. What are your immediate actions?

169.Convert 150 °F to degrees Celsius.

170.What is the difference between 100% density and 150% density?

171.What are the signs of excessive tension during micro-ring application?

172.What is the average time for applying 50 micro-rings?

Answers: 1. The mesh cap is lightweight and breathable; the full cap is opaque and more durable. 2. (130 ÷ 100) × 58 × 1.2 = 90.5 g, rounded to 95 g. 3. 90 °C. 4. Washing frequency, heat exposure, UV exposure. 5. Rules 26-700 (grounding) and 26-704 (GFCI). 6. Remove the capsules, clean the area, refer to a dermatologist. 7. (150 − 32) × 5 ÷ 9 = 65.6 °C. 8. 150% density is 1.5 times thicker than 100% density. 9. The ring does not slide freely, pain, redness. 10. 1.5 to 2 hours.

Wigs, Hair Additions, and Extensions