Shampooing, Conditioning, and Scalp Treatments

Learning Objectives

This chapter covers all the skills and knowledge required for the Red Seal exam regarding shampooing, conditioning, and scalp treatments. You will find the scientific principles, technical procedures, safety standards, dilution calculations, and common pitfalls to avoid.

Fundamental Principles of Shampooing

The Role of Shampooing

Shampooing is a cleaning procedure for the scalp and hair shaft. It aims to:

Remove sebum, sweat, dead skin cells, and styling product residues

Prepare the hair for subsequent treatments (cut, colour, perm)

Maintain the skin's pH balance (4.5 to 5.5)

Stimulate blood microcirculation in the scalp

Types of Shampoos and Their Indications

Type of Shampoo	Typical pH	Indications	Contraindications
Balancing (neutral)	5.5 – 6.5	Everyday use, all hair types	None
Mild (baby)	6.5 – 7.0	Sensitive scalp, children	Very oily hair
Clarifying (chelating)	7.0 – 8.0	Product buildup, hard water	Frequent use (dries out)
Medicated (anti-dandruff)	4.5 – 5.5	Pityriasis simplex, seborrheic dermatitis	Pregnancy (certain active ingredients)
Colour-protecting	5.0 – 5.5	Colour-treated hair	None
Volumizing	6.0 – 7.0	Fine, limp hair	Dry hair
Moisturizing	4.5 – 5.5	Dry, curly, damaged hair	Oily hair

Surfactant Agents

Shampoos contain surfactants that lower the surface tension of water and allow the emulsification of lipids. They are classified as:

Anionic: sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). High detergent power, abundant lather. Harsh if used alone.

Amphoteric: cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoamphoacetate. Gentle, compatible with colour-treated hair.

Non-ionic: ethoxylated fatty alcohols. Low lather, used as secondary agents.

Cationic: rarely found in shampoos (except leave-in conditioners). Antistatic.

Rule of thumb: the more anionic the surfactant, the stronger the cleansing power, but the higher the risk of hair dehydration.

Professional Shampooing Procedure

Workstation Preparation

24.Disinfect the shampoo bowl and chair with an approved disinfectant solution (quaternary ammonium at 1:1000 or equivalent).

25.Check the water temperature: 35 °C to 38 °C (warm water). Water that is too hot (≥ 40 °C) overstimulates the sebaceous glands and can burn the scalp.

26.Prepare clean towels, a waterproof cape, and a comb.

27.Assess the condition of the scalp (visual inspection and palpation) before any wetting.

Technical Steps

29.Pre-brushing: detangle the hair with a soft-bristle brush to remove dust and stimulate circulation. Never brush wet hair (risk of breakage).

30.Complete wetting: tilt the client's head back, wet the hair from the nape toward the forehead. Water should flow from the forehead to the nape to avoid flooding the face.

31.Shampoo application: pour 5 to 10 mL (depending on length) into the palm, then apply to the scalp starting at the frontal area.

32.Scalp massage: use the pads of the fingers (never the nails), circular movements for 3 to 5 minutes. Pressure should be firm but not painful.

33.Emulsification and rinsing: work the lather through the entire length, rinse thoroughly with warm water. Rinsing must be complete (residue = irritation and dull appearance).

34.Second shampoo (if necessary): for very oily or very dirty hair. The first lather removes surface impurities, the second cleanses deeply.

35.Conditioner application: on the lengths and ends only (never on the scalp, unless specifically indicated). Leave on for 1 to 3 minutes depending on the product.

36.Final rinse: with warm water, then cool water (15–20 seconds) to close the cuticle scales and increase shine.

37.Preliminary drying: wrap the hair in a towel, press gently (do not rub).

Ergonomic Positions

The stylist stands upright, back straight, shoulders relaxed.

The client is reclined at a maximum of 45° relative to the back of the bowl.

The stylist's elbows remain close to the body.

The client's neck rests comfortably in the notch of the bowl.

Conditioners

Composition and Functions

Conditioners contain cationic agents (e.g., cetrimonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride) that bond electrostatically to anionic sites (negative charges) on the damaged hair fibre. They:

Neutralize electrostatic charges (reduce frizz)

Close the cuticle scales

Lubricate the fibre (easier detangling)

Provide shine and softness

Types of Conditioners

Type	Application Method	Dwell Time	Indication
Rinse-out conditioner	On towel-dried hair	1–3 min	Everyday use
Deep conditioner (mask)	On towel-dried hair, optional heat	5–20 min	Very damaged, bleached hair
Leave-in conditioner	On damp or dry hair	None	Heat protection, detangling
Glossing treatment	After shampooing	5–10 min	Revive colour, shine

Application Rules

Amount: a 2–3 cm diameter dollop for short hair, 4–5 cm for long hair.

Application area: from the ears down to the ends. The scalp naturally produces sebum; applying conditioner to the scalp creates a greasy effect.

Rinsing: thorough for rinse-out conditioners. Insufficient rinsing leaves a sticky film that attracts dust.

Compatibility: conditioners can reduce the effectiveness of subsequent colour treatments; rinse thoroughly before colouring.

Scalp Treatments

Preliminary Diagnosis

Before any treatment, perform:

62.Client history: medical history, medications, allergies, hair care habits.

63.Visual inspection: colour, texture, presence of lesions, scaling, redness.

64.Palpation: elasticity, tenderness, local temperature.

65.Magnifying lamp examination (if available): condition of follicles, scales, parasites.

Common Scalp Conditions

Condition	Characteristics	Salon Treatment	Medical Referral Required
Pityriasis simplex (dry dandruff)	Fine, white, non-inflammatory scaling	Anti-dandruff shampoo (zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide)	No
Seborrheic dermatitis	Greasy, yellowish scaling, redness	Ketoconazole 2% shampoo, coal tar	Yes if persistent
Scalp psoriasis	Thick, silvery, well-defined plaques	No salon treatment; refer	Yes
Ringworm (tinea capitis)	Bald patches, broken hairs, inflammation	No treatment; refer immediately	Yes
Pediculosis (lice)	Nits (eggs) attached to the hair base, itching	Pediculicide treatment, fine-tooth comb	No (over-the-counter products)
Folliculitis	Small pustules around follicles	No treatment; refer	Yes

Anti-Dandruff Treatment Protocol

69.Apply the medicated shampoo to a dry scalp (if indicated by the manufacturer).

70.Massage for 3 to 5 minutes.

71.Leave on for 5 minutes (contact time required for the active ingredient).

72.Rinse thoroughly.

73.Repeat 2 to 3 times per week for 4 weeks, then reassess.

Moisturizing and Repair Treatments

Warm steam: opens the cuticle, increases penetration of active ingredients by 30 to 40%. Duration: 10–15 minutes.

Oil therapy: application of plant oils (jojoba, argan, coconut) to the scalp and lengths. Dwell time: 20–30 minutes under gentle heat.

Scalp exfoliation: scrub with fine particles (sugar, fine salt) once a month to remove product buildup.

Calculations and Dosages

Dilution of Concentrated Shampoos

Some professional shampoos are concentrated and must be diluted. The general formula:

C₁ × V₁ = C₂ × V₂

Where:

C₁ = initial concentration (pure product)

V₁ = volume of pure product to measure out

C₂ = desired final concentration

V₂ = total final volume

Example: You need to prepare 500 mL of a 10% solution from a 100% concentrated shampoo.

V₁ = (C₂ × V₂) / C₁ = (0.10 × 500) / 1.00 = 50 mL of concentrate

Add 450 mL of distilled water to obtain 500 mL of a 10% solution.

Calculating Dwell Time

The total treatment time (T) for a combined treatment:

T = t₁ + t₂ + t₃

Where t₁ = massage time, t₂ = product dwell time, t₃ = rinsing time.

Example: Massage 4 min, mask dwell 15 min, rinse 3 min → T = 22 minutes.

Product-to-Hair-Length Ratio

Length	Shampoo	Conditioner	Mask
Short (≤ 5 cm)	5 mL	3 mL	10 mL
Medium (5–20 cm)	10 mL	5 mL	20 mL
Long (≥ 20 cm)	15–20 mL	8–10 mL	30–40 mL

Safety Standards and Regulations

Canadian Electrical Code, Part I

Electrical installations in salons (hair dryers, hood dryers, sterilizers) must comply with the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I (C22.1-21). Key points:

Rule 8-200: branch circuits supplying receptacles in hair salons must be protected by a Class A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) (30 mA maximum).

Rule 26-700: receptacles located within 1.5 m of a water source (wash basin) must be GFCI-protected.

Rule 2-300: all electrical equipment must be approved by an accredited organization (CSA, cUL, etc.).

Health Product Safety Guidelines (Health Canada)

Medicated shampoos containing ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, or coal tar are natural health products or over-the-counter drugs regulated by Health Canada. Their use must follow label instructions.

Cosmetic products (non-medicated shampoos, conditioners) must comply with the Cosmetics Regulations (Food and Drugs Act). They must be notified to Health Canada.

Hygiene Standards (National Guidelines)

Disinfect tools and surfaces between each client: quaternary ammonium disinfectant solution at 1:1000 (0.1%) or equivalent.

Wash hands before and after each client (minimum 20 seconds, warm water and soap).

Clean towels for each client. Used towels must be laundered at ≥ 60 °C.

Disposable gloves for scalp treatments involving medicated products or if the scalp has lesions.

Specific Procedures and Adaptations

Shampooing for Clients with Reduced Mobility

Use a reclining chair or a portable shampoo basin.

Check the stability of the chair before starting.

Adjust the reclining angle (maximum 30°) to avoid neck pain.

Offer a dry shampoo (powder or foam) if traditional washing is not possible.

Shampooing for Clients with Hair Extensions

Use a sulfate-free shampoo (pH 5.0–5.5).

Apply the product to the scalp only, avoiding the attachment points.

Massage with linear movements (not circular) to avoid tangling the extensions.

Rinse with warm water, never hot (risk of keratin bond failure).

Treatment of Chemically Treated Hair (Bleached, Permed)

Shampoo pH: 4.5–5.5 (acidic) to close the cuticle.

Use a protein conditioner (hydrolyzed keratin, collagen) to strengthen the fibre.

Avoid clarifying shampoos (alkaline pH) that accelerate colour fading.

Minimum interval of 48 hours between a chemical treatment and a clarifying shampoo.

Pitfalls to Avoid

132.Confusing acidic and alkaline pH: a pH below 7 is acidic (closes the cuticle), above 7 is alkaline (opens the cuticle). The scalp pH is 4.5 to 5.5.

133.Using fingernails to massage the scalp: this causes micro-lesions and irritation. Always use the pads of the fingers.

134.Water that is too hot: above 40 °C, water stimulates sebum production and can burn the scalp. The ideal temperature is 35–38 °C.

135.Applying conditioner to the scalp: this clogs the follicles and creates a greasy effect. Apply to the lengths and ends only.

136.Neglecting the rinse: shampoo or conditioner residue irritates the scalp and dulls the hair. Rinse until the water runs clear.

137.Forgetting the GFCI: every receptacle near a wash basin must be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (Rule 26-700 of the Canadian Electrical Code).

138.Treating a medical condition without a referral: psoriasis, ringworm, and folliculitis must be referred to a physician. The stylist must not attempt to treat them.

139.Mixing incompatible products: never mix a coal tar anti-dandruff shampoo with a product containing peroxide (risk of exothermic reaction).

140.Calculating a dilution with the wrong units: always convert volumes to mL and concentrations to decimals before applying C₁V₁ = C₂V₂.

141.Brushing wet hair: the wet hair fibre is 30% more fragile. Detangle with a wide-tooth comb, never a brush.

Tips for the Red Seal Exam

Memorize key values: skin pH (4.5–5.5), water temperature (35–38 °C), massage time (3–5 min), conditioner dwell time (1–3 min), GFCI rating (30 mA).

Learn to read labels: exam questions often present product labels. Identify the pH, active ingredients, and contraindications.

Master dilution calculations: practice C₁V₁ = C₂V₂ with different scenarios (preparing solutions, adjusting concentration).

Know the warning signs: any oozing lesion, circular bald patch, or parasitic infestation requires immediate medical referral.

Match each product to its indication: clarifying shampoo = buildup, acidic shampoo = colour-treated hair, medicated shampoo = dandruff.

Review electrical standards: questions on the Canadian Electrical Code often focus on distances (1.5 m from a water source) and protections (GFCI).

Summary

Shampooing cleans the scalp and hair shaft while maintaining the skin's pH between 4.5 and 5.5.

Water temperature should be 35 to 38 °C; hot water stimulates sebum and can burn.

Anionic surfactants clean strongly but dry out; amphoteric surfactants are gentler.

Scalp massage is performed with the pads of the fingers, in circular movements, for 3 to 5 minutes.

Conditioner is applied to the lengths and ends, never the scalp, with a dwell time of 1 to 3 minutes.

Scalp treatments require a preliminary diagnosis; inflammatory or infectious conditions (psoriasis, ringworm, folliculitis) must be referred to a physician.

Dilution calculations use the formula C₁V₁ = C₂V₂; always convert to mL and decimals.

Electrical receptacles near water sources must be protected by a GFCI (Rule 26-700 of the Canadian Electrical Code, Part I).

Hygiene requires clean towels per client, surface disinfection, and systematic hand washing.

Self-Assessment Questions

163.What is the normal pH of the human scalp?

a) 3.0–4.0 b) 4.5–5.5 c) 6.5–7.5 d) 8.0–9.0

165.What is the ideal water temperature for a shampoo?

a) 25–30 °C b) 35–38 °C c) 40–45 °C d) 50–55 °C

167.Which surfactant is gentlest for colour-treated hair?

a) Sodium lauryl sulfate b) Sodium laureth sulfate c) Cocoamphoacetate d) Magnesium sulfate

169.You need to prepare 250 mL of an 8% solution from a 100% concentrate. What volume of concentrate is required?

a) 10 mL b) 20 mL c) 25 mL d) 40 mL

171.Which scalp condition requires immediate medical referral?

a) Dry dandruff b) Mild seborrheic dermatitis c) Ringworm d) Oily scalp

Answers: 1-b, 2-b, 3-c, 4-b (V₁ = 0.08 × 250 / 1.00 = 20 mL), 5-c.

Shampooing, Conditioning, and Scalp Treatments